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Data Recovery Guide

How to Recover Data from a Mac That Won't Turn On

Updated August 4, 2026
In this article
Dead MacBook data recovery in lab

If your Mac won't turn on, your data is almost certainly still intact on the internal drive: the usual culprit is the logic board, power circuitry, or battery, not the storage. How you get the files back depends on the Mac: Intel models let you pull data with Target Disk Mode or by removing the drive, while Apple Silicon (M1-M4) Macs have soldered storage and usually need professional lab recovery.

How to recover the data:

  • Intel Mac: use Target Disk Mode, or remove the drive and read it in an enclosure
  • Apple Silicon (M1/M2/M3/M4): storage is soldered; a lab reads it off the board
  • FileVault enabled: you'll need the password to unlock the disk before any copy
  • Time Machine backup: restore everything to a new Mac with Migration Assistant

If the board is dead or the storage is soldered, our MacBook data recovery lab recovers data from dead Macs every week.

If your Mac won't turn on, your data is almost certainly still intact on the internal drive. The screen might be black. The fans might be silent. You might press the power button twenty times and get nothing. That doesn't mean your files are gone. In most cases, the problem is the logic board, the power circuitry, or the battery. Not the storage. Your photos, documents, and projects are just sitting on that drive with no way to reach them through normal boot. The good news? There are several ways to recover data from a Mac that won't turn on, and some of them don't even require opening the machine.

We're MDrepairs, a professional data recovery lab in New Jersey. We recover data from dead Macs every week. MacBooks, iMacs, Mac Minis, Mac Pros. We've seen every failure mode there is. Below, we'll walk through every option for getting your files back, starting with things you can try at home before moving into professional recovery.

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Why Your Mac Won't Turn On

Before you panic about your data, it helps to understand why the Mac died in the first place. Because the reason it won't boot determines how you get the data off of it.

Most "dead Mac" situations fall into a handful of categories:

Failure Type Symptoms Data Usually Safe?
Dead battery No response at all, especially on older MacBooks Yes. Battery has nothing to do with storage.
Bad charger or port No charging indicator, no power Yes. Just a power delivery problem.
Logic board failure No power, or power with no display output Yes. Drive is separate from the logic board (mostly).
Liquid damage Worked fine, then died after a spill Usually yes, unless liquid reached the SSD directly.
SSD failure Folder with question mark, or no boot at all Depends. Needs professional evaluation.
Software corruption Stuck on Apple logo, progress bar loops Yes. Data is there, OS just can't load.

Here's what matters: in probably 80% of dead Mac cases, the storage drive is perfectly fine. The Mac won't turn on because something else failed. And if the drive is fine, your data is fine. We just need to find a way to access it.

Quick reality check: If your Mac was dropped, submerged in water, or you hear clicking/grinding sounds when it tries to start, skip straight to the professional recovery section. DIY attempts on physically damaged machines can make things worse.

Quick Fixes to Try First

Before you start pulling drives out of your Mac or calling a lab, run through these. You'd be surprised how often one of these solves the problem entirely.

1 Check the Basics

Try a different power outlet. Use a different charging cable if you have one. If you're using a USB-C MacBook, try each port. One port might be dead while another works fine. Leave it plugged in for at least 30 minutes. A completely drained battery can sometimes take a while before the Mac responds to the power button.

2 Force Restart

Hold the power button for a full 10 seconds. Not 5. Not 7. Count to 10. Then release, wait 5 seconds, and press it again normally. On MacBooks with Touch ID, the power button is the Touch ID sensor in the top right of the keyboard.

3 Reset the SMC (Intel Macs Only)

The System Management Controller handles power management. If it gets confused, your Mac might refuse to turn on even though the hardware is fine.

  • MacBook with T2 chip (2018+): Shut down. Hold Control + Option + Shift (left side) for 7 seconds, then also hold the power button for another 7 seconds. Release everything. Wait a few seconds, then press power.
  • MacBook without T2 (pre-2018): Shut down. Hold Shift + Control + Option and the power button simultaneously for 10 seconds. Release. Press power.
  • Desktop Mac (iMac, Mac Mini, Mac Pro): Unplug from power. Wait 15 seconds. Plug back in. Wait 5 seconds. Press power.

4 Reset NVRAM/PRAM (Intel Macs Only)

Turn on the Mac and immediately hold Option + Command + P + R. Keep holding for about 20 seconds. On older Macs you'll hear the startup chime twice. On T2 Macs, hold until the Apple logo appears and disappears for the second time.

5 Try an External Display

Sometimes the Mac is actually on but the display is dead. Connect an external monitor via HDMI, Thunderbolt, or USB-C. If you see your desktop on the external display, your Mac is fine. The screen just needs repair. Your data isn't at risk at all.

None of these steps put your data at risk, so there's no downside to trying them all. If your Mac comes back to life, great. Back up everything immediately before it dies again.

Apple Silicon Macs (M1, M2, M3, M4): These don't have an SMC or NVRAM to reset in the traditional sense. The equivalent is a full shutdown (hold power 10 seconds), then press and hold the power button until you see "Loading startup options." If you see that screen, your Mac isn't truly dead.

Target Disk Mode and Share Disk (Intel vs Apple Silicon)

This is one of the best ways to recover data from a Mac that won't turn on normally. You basically turn the dead Mac into an external hard drive and connect it to a working Mac.

Intel Macs: Target Disk Mode

Target Disk Mode has been around forever and it's incredibly useful. Here's how it works:

  1. Connect your dead Mac to a working Mac using a Thunderbolt cable, USB-C cable, or (on very old models) FireWire.
  2. Power on the dead Mac while holding the T key.
  3. If it works, you'll see a big Thunderbolt symbol on the dead Mac's screen.
  4. The dead Mac should appear as an external drive on the working Mac's desktop.
  5. Drag your files over. Done.

The catch? Target Disk Mode requires the Mac to have enough power to spin up the logic board, even if macOS won't boot. If the logic board is completely dead, this won't work. But if the Mac died from a software issue, a corrupted OS, or a failed update, Target Disk Mode often saves the day because it bypasses macOS entirely.

Apple Silicon Macs: Share Disk

Apple replaced Target Disk Mode with something called "Share Disk" on M1/M2/M3/M4 Macs. It's similar but works differently.

  1. Connect both Macs with a USB-C or Thunderbolt cable.
  2. On the dead Mac, press and hold the power button until you see "Loading startup options."
  3. Click Options, then go to Utilities > Share Disk.
  4. Select the disk to share and click Start Sharing.
  5. On the working Mac, open Finder. The shared disk should appear in the sidebar under Network.

The problem with Share Disk is that it needs the Mac to reach the recovery environment. If the machine is truly dead (won't respond to the power button at all), Share Disk isn't going to help. Also, if FileVault is enabled, you'll need the password to unlock the disk before sharing it.

Which cable do you need? Use a Thunderbolt 3 or Thunderbolt 4 cable for modern Macs. A regular USB-C charging cable often works too, but Thunderbolt gives you much faster transfer speeds. This matters when you're copying hundreds of gigs of data.
Removing SSD from dead MacBook for data recovery

Removing the Drive and Using an Enclosure

If Target Disk Mode or Share Disk doesn't work, the next option is physically removing the storage drive and connecting it to another computer. Whether this is possible depends entirely on which Mac you have.

Macs Where You Can Remove the Drive

Mac Model Drive Removable?
MacBook Pro (pre-2016) Yes. Standard 2.5" SATA HDD or SSD. Easy to remove.
MacBook Air (2010-2017) Yes. Proprietary Apple SSD stick. Needs a special adapter.
MacBook Pro (2013-2015) Yes. Proprietary Apple SSD. Needs an adapter (12+16 pin to M.2).
iMac (all years) Yes, but you have to remove the display (held on by adhesive strips).
Mac Mini (pre-2014) Yes. Standard 2.5" drive. Accessible from the bottom panel.
Mac Pro (tower models) Yes. Standard SATA drives. Easiest Mac to open.

Macs Where the Storage is Soldered

Starting in 2016 for MacBook Pros and 2018 for MacBook Airs, Apple began soldering the SSD storage directly to the logic board. This means you can't just pop the drive out and read it in an enclosure. The storage chips are physically part of the motherboard.

Every Mac with an M1, M2, M3, or M4 chip has soldered storage. No exceptions.

If you have one of these Macs and it won't turn on, your options are more limited. Target Disk Mode (or Share Disk) is your best bet. If that fails, you're looking at professional recovery where a technician needs to work with the logic board directly to access the NAND flash chips.

Don't open a Mac you're not comfortable with. iMacs require carefully cutting adhesive strips and lifting a glass display. One wrong move cracks the screen. MacBooks from 2016 and later have pentalobe screws and ribbon cables everywhere. If your issue is specifically a laptop that won't turn on, we have a separate guide covering all brands. If you've never done it before, you'll create more problems than you solve.

If You Can Remove the Drive

For older Macs with removable drives, the process is straightforward:

  1. Open the Mac and carefully disconnect the drive. YouTube has teardown videos for every Mac model. iFixit guides are also excellent.
  2. Get the right enclosure or adapter. For 2.5" SATA drives, any USB 3.0 SATA enclosure works (they're $10-15 on Amazon). For proprietary Apple SSDs, you need a specific adapter. Search for your exact Mac model to find the right one.
  3. Connect it to a working Mac. The drive should mount on the desktop. If it doesn't show up in Finder, open Disk Utility and check if it appears there. An unmounted but visible drive can often be mounted manually.
  4. Copy your files. Drag everything you need to the working Mac's internal drive or an external backup drive.
Pro tip: If the drive is formatted as APFS or HFS+ (which all Mac drives are), it'll only mount natively on another Mac. If you only have a Windows PC, you'll need third-party software like Paragon HFS+ or Tuxera to read the Mac filesystem on Windows.

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macOS Recovery Mode

Recovery Mode is built into every Mac. It loads a minimal version of macOS from a separate partition (or from the internet on newer machines). If your Mac can reach Recovery Mode, you can often access your files without booting into the full OS.

How to Boot into Recovery Mode

Intel Macs: Power on and immediately hold Command + R. Keep holding until you see the Apple logo or a spinning globe.

Apple Silicon Macs (M1/M2/M3/M4): Press and hold the power button (don't just tap it). Keep holding until you see "Loading startup options." Then click Options and hit Continue.

What You Can Do in Recovery Mode

Once you're in Recovery Mode, go to the menu bar and click Utilities > Terminal. From Terminal, you can copy files to an external drive:

Copy files via Terminal in Recovery Mode

Plug in an external USB drive. Then in Terminal:

  1. Find your external drive: ls /Volumes/
  2. Navigate to your user folder: cd /Volumes/Macintosh HD/Users/yourusername/
  3. Copy files: cp -R Documents/ /Volumes/YourExternalDrive/Recovery/
  4. Repeat for Desktop, Pictures, Downloads, or whatever folders you need.

You can also use Disk Utility in Recovery Mode to check the health of your internal drive. If the drive shows up in Disk Utility but won't mount, try clicking First Aid. Sometimes it can repair filesystem corruption and make the drive mountable again.

If macOS Recovery won't load at all (you just get a black screen or the Mac shuts itself off), the problem is deeper than software. That usually points to a logic board or power issue.

Restoring from Time Machine Backups

If you were using Time Machine before your Mac died, this might be the easiest recovery path. Time Machine keeps hourly backups for the past 24 hours, daily backups for the past month, and weekly backups until the backup drive is full.

How to Access Time Machine Backups

Your Time Machine backup lives on an external drive or a network drive (like an old AirPort Time Capsule). You don't need the dead Mac at all to access these files.

  1. Connect the Time Machine drive to a working Mac.
  2. Open the drive in Finder. Navigate to the Backups.backupdb folder.
  3. Find your Mac's folder (it's named after the machine).
  4. Open the dated folders to find the snapshot closest to when your Mac died.
  5. Navigate to the Users folder and grab your files.

You can also use Migration Assistant on a new Mac to restore everything from a Time Machine backup. It'll pull over your apps, settings, user accounts, and all your files. It's the closest thing to cloning your old Mac onto a new one.

Don't have Time Machine backups? This is the most common situation we see. Only about 10-15% of people who bring us dead Macs were running Time Machine. If that's you, don't feel bad. Just know that Time Machine is the single best thing you can set up once you recover your data and get a working Mac again.

iCloud is another option if you had iCloud Drive, iCloud Photos, or Desktop & Documents syncing enabled. Log into icloud.com from any browser to check what's there. Even if you didn't consciously set it up, macOS nudges you to enable iCloud during initial setup, so you might have more synced than you think.

The T2 and Apple Silicon Problem

This is the section nobody wants to read. But if you've got a Mac from 2018 or later, you need to understand this.

What the T2 Chip Changed

Starting with the 2018 MacBook Pro, Apple added the T2 security chip. This chip encrypts the internal SSD automatically. Always. Even if you never turned on FileVault. The encryption key is stored on the T2 chip itself, which lives on the logic board.

What does this mean for data recovery? If the logic board is dead and you somehow manage to desolder the NAND flash chips from it, the data on those chips is encrypted. Without the T2 chip to decrypt it, the data is unreadable. It's just gibberish.

Apple Silicon Takes It Further

M1, M2, M3, and M4 Macs don't have a separate T2 chip because the encryption engine is built directly into the main processor. Same problem, though. The storage is always encrypted and tied to that specific processor.

This means:

  • You can't remove the SSD and read it in another machine (even if it were removable, which it isn't).
  • If the processor is damaged, accessing the encrypted data becomes nearly impossible.
  • The logic board must be at least partially functional to decrypt and access the data.
This is why professional recovery matters for modern Macs. A skilled technician can sometimes repair the logic board just enough to power it on and extract data, even if it'll never work reliably as a daily machine again. That's a very different skill than general computer repair. It requires microsoldering equipment, schematics, and experience with Apple's board designs.

What About Older Macs?

Pre-2018 Macs without a T2 chip don't have this encryption problem (unless you manually enabled FileVault). The SSD or HDD can be removed and read directly. That's why data recovery from older Macs is generally easier and cheaper.

DFU mode recovery on Mac

When You Need Professional Lab Recovery

Some dead Mac situations just can't be solved at home. Here's when you need to send it to a lab like ours.

Situations That Require Professional Recovery

  • The Mac is completely unresponsive. No lights, no sounds, no fan spin. Won't enter Target Disk Mode or Recovery Mode. Nothing.
  • Liquid damage. Coffee, water, soda. If liquid got inside, corrosion can spread to the SSD or its controller. Every day you wait, corrosion gets worse.
  • T2 or Apple Silicon Mac with a dead logic board. The data is encrypted and tied to that board. A tech needs to repair the board enough to extract data.
  • Clicking, grinding, or beeping sounds. These indicate physical damage to a spinning hard drive (in older Macs or Fusion Drive models). This is cleanroom work.
  • You already tried opening it and something went wrong. Torn ribbon cable, stripped screws, cracked display. We see this more often than you'd think.
  • SSD failure. The drive itself died, not just the Mac around it. This requires reading NAND flash chips directly with specialized equipment.

How Professional Mac Recovery Works at MDrepairs

Here's our actual process. No mystery, no black box.

1 Diagnostic

You ship us the Mac (or drop it off if you're in New Jersey). We evaluate the machine and figure out exactly what failed and what it'll take to get your data. This evaluation comes first. Always.

2 Quote and Approval

We tell you what's wrong, what we can recover, and what it costs. You decide whether to proceed. If you say no, we ship it back. No charge for the diagnostic.

3 Recovery

Depending on the failure, we might:

  • Repair the logic board enough to boot and extract data
  • Remove the SSD and read it directly (older Macs)
  • Use chip-off recovery techniques for failed SSDs
  • Perform cleanroom work on Fusion Drives with physical damage

4 File Verification and Delivery

We generate a file listing so you can verify everything is there. Then we transfer your data to a new external drive and ship it back to you (or you pick it up).

Our policy is simple: no data, no charge. If we can't recover your files, you don't pay for the recovery attempt. That's the industry standard at legitimate labs, and it's the way it should be.

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What NOT to Do with a Dead Mac

We've seen people make recoverable situations unrecoverable. Don't be one of them.

Don't Keep Trying to Turn It On

If your Mac died from liquid damage or a short circuit, repeatedly pressing the power button can cause further electrical damage. Each power-on attempt sends current through the board. If there's a short somewhere, you're cooking components every time you try.

Two or three attempts? Fine. Twenty attempts over a week? You're probably making it worse.

Don't Open It If You're Not Sure What You're Doing

Modern MacBooks are not designed to be user-serviceable. The screws are tiny. The ribbon cables are fragile. The battery is glued in. If you've never opened a MacBook before, watching one YouTube video doesn't make you ready. We've received Macs where a customer tore the display cable, cracked the display, or shorted the board with a metal tool while trying to remove the SSD.

Don't Take It to a General Repair Shop for Data Recovery

Most computer repair shops are great at replacing screens and batteries. Data recovery from a dead logic board is a completely different skill set. It requires microsoldering stations, schematics, donor boards, and experience that general repair shops don't have. If they attempt it and fail, they can reduce the chance of a professional lab succeeding afterward.

Don't Put It in Rice

Seriously. If your Mac died from liquid damage, rice does nothing. Rice doesn't absorb moisture from inside a sealed aluminum chassis. It doesn't neutralize corrosion. It just wastes time while corrosion spreads across the board. If liquid is involved, the machine needs to be opened and the board needs to be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and an ultrasonic cleaner. The sooner the better.

Don't Use Data Recovery Software on the Dead Mac

Software-based data recovery tools like Disk Drill or Data Rescue are useful when the Mac boots but a file was accidentally deleted. They're useless when the Mac won't turn on at all. You can't run software on a machine that doesn't power on. If someone tells you to "just run data recovery software," they're not understanding the problem.

How Much Does Mac Data Recovery Cost?

It depends on what's wrong. Here are rough ranges so you know what to expect:

Scenario Typical Cost Range
Drive removal + enclosure (older Mac, DIY) $10-30 for the enclosure/adapter
Drive removal + enclosure (professional) $100-300
Logic board repair for data extraction $300-900
Chip-off SSD recovery $500-1,500
Cleanroom recovery (Fusion Drive / HDD) $400-1,200
T2/Apple Silicon encrypted recovery $500-1,500+

These are industry averages. The actual cost depends on the specific failure, the Mac model, and how much data needs to be recovered. At MDrepairs, we always give you a firm quote after the diagnostic. No surprises.

Watch out for "flat rate" pricing. Some companies advertise flat rates like "$299 for any recovery." That sounds appealing, but it usually means they're overcharging simple cases to subsidize the complex ones. Or they'll hit you with fees for "expedited service" or "secure data destruction" that weren't in the original quote. Ask for a detailed breakdown before committing to any lab.

Recovery Options by Mac Model

Not every method works for every Mac. Here's a quick reference so you don't waste time on approaches that won't work for your specific machine.

Mac Model Best Recovery Method Notes
MacBook Pro 2012 or older Remove drive, use SATA enclosure Standard 2.5" drive. Easiest scenario.
MacBook Pro 2013-2015 Remove SSD, use Apple SSD adapter Proprietary connector but removable.
MacBook Pro 2016-2017 Target Disk Mode SSD is removable but encrypted via T1 on some models.
MacBook Pro 2018-2020 (Intel) Target Disk Mode or professional recovery T2 encryption. SSD soldered on some models.
MacBook Pro M1-M4 Share Disk or professional recovery Storage soldered and encrypted. No DIY removal option.
MacBook Air 2010-2017 Remove SSD, use adapter Proprietary Apple SSD. Adapters available online.
MacBook Air 2018+ (Intel) Target Disk Mode or professional T2 encrypted, soldered storage.
MacBook Air M1-M4 Share Disk or professional recovery Soldered and encrypted. Same as M-series Pro.
iMac (any year) Target Disk Mode, or remove drive (requires display removal) Drive is accessible but display adhesive makes it tricky.
Mac Mini (pre-2014) Remove 2.5" drive from bottom panel Very easy to open. Standard SATA.
Mac Mini M1-M4 Share Disk or professional recovery Soldered, encrypted storage.
Logic board repair in data recovery lab

Preventing This from Happening Again

Once you recover your data (and you will), set yourself up so this never becomes a crisis again.

Time Machine. Just Do It.

Buy an external drive. Plug it in. Say yes when macOS asks if you want to use it for Time Machine. That's it. You're done. You now have automatic hourly backups. The drive can stay plugged in all the time, or you can plug it in once a week. Either way, you'll have backups.

A 2TB external drive costs $60-80. That's the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy for your data.

Turn On iCloud

Enable iCloud Drive and Desktop & Documents syncing. Go to System Settings > Apple ID > iCloud > iCloud Drive and make sure it's on. This automatically syncs your Desktop and Documents folders to iCloud. Even if your Mac and your Time Machine drive both fail simultaneously (unlikely but possible), your files are still in the cloud.

Consider a Cloud Backup Service

Backblaze backs up your entire Mac continuously for $9/month. It runs in the background, you don't have to think about it, and it backs up everything including external drives. It's different from iCloud because it's a true backup (keeps deleted files for 30 days, keeps previous versions) rather than just syncing.

The ideal setup: Time Machine for local backups (fast restores) plus Backblaze or iCloud for off-site backups (protection against theft, fire, flood). Belt and suspenders.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you recover data from a Mac that won't turn on at all?

Yes, in most cases. If the Mac won't power on, it usually means the logic board, battery, or power circuitry failed. The internal drive is typically unaffected. For older Macs, we can remove the drive and read it directly. For newer Macs with soldered, encrypted storage, we can often repair the logic board enough to extract the data. Our success rate on dead Mac recovery is well above 85%.

Is the data encrypted if I never turned on FileVault?

On Macs from 2018 and later (those with a T2 chip, or any M1/M2/M3/M4 Mac), yes. The data is automatically encrypted by the security chip even if you never enabled FileVault. FileVault adds a login password requirement on top of that encryption, but the hardware-level encryption is always active. On pre-2018 Macs without a T2 chip, data is not encrypted unless you manually enabled FileVault.

How long does Mac data recovery take?

Simple cases (removing a drive and reading it in an enclosure) can be done in a few hours. Logic board repairs for data extraction typically take 2-5 business days. Complex chip-off recoveries might take 1-2 weeks. At MDrepairs, we give you a time estimate along with the cost quote after the diagnostic.

Can I recover data from a water-damaged MacBook?

Usually, yes. Liquid damage is one of the most common reasons MacBooks die. The key is acting quickly. Corrosion starts spreading across the logic board within hours of the spill. Turn the Mac off immediately (don't try to use it), don't plug it in, and get it to a professional as soon as possible. The longer you wait, the more damage the corrosion causes. We clean the board with an ultrasonic cleaner and repair damaged traces to recover data from liquid-damaged Macs.

What if my Mac has a Fusion Drive?

Fusion Drives combine a small SSD with a larger traditional hard drive. macOS treats them as a single volume. If the Mac won't turn on, recovery is possible but slightly more complex because data is split across two physical drives. Both drives need to be recovered and their data recombined. This is straightforward for a professional lab but not something you can easily do at home.

Can Apple recover my data?

No. Apple does not offer data recovery services. If you bring a dead Mac to the Apple Store or an Authorized Service Provider, they'll offer to replace the logic board (which may erase your data) or sell you a new Mac. They won't try to recover your files. Apple's official recommendation is to keep backups via Time Machine or iCloud. For actual data recovery from a dead Mac, you need a third-party data recovery lab.

Is it worth recovering data from a very old Mac?

That depends on what's on it. From a technical standpoint, older Macs (pre-2016) are actually the easiest and cheapest to recover. The drives are removable, unencrypted (usually), and use standard interfaces. A 2012 MacBook Pro with a failed logic board? We can have that drive out and your data copied in under an hour. The question is whether the files on it are worth the cost of recovery to you. Family photos you can't replace? Absolutely worth it. Old work documents you can re-download from email? Maybe not.

When DIY stops being safe

If your Mac will not turn on after basic charger, cable, port, force restart, and recovery mode checks, the next move should protect the data rather than chase power at any cost. Modern Macs often use encrypted, soldered storage that depends on the logic board working well enough to authenticate and read the drive. Liquid damage, no image, no fan activity, repeated restart chimes, or a Mac that warms up but never boots can point to board-level failure. Repeated charging and power cycling can make that failure harder to stabilize.

MDRepairs provides MacBook data recovery for dead Intel, T2, and Apple Silicon machines in a real NJ lab. We use a $100 diagnostic, applied toward recovery, and no data, no charge. Nationwide customers can start with insured mail in data recovery, including a prepaid inbound shipping label and a free phone consult.

Mac Hardware Failures Need a Different Bench

Between T2 security chips, Apple Silicon encryption, and storage soldered to the board, Mac recovery is board work as much as data work. If the macOS-side fixes did not revive it, see how our data recovery services handle MacBooks, iMacs, and Mac-formatted external drives. The diagnostic is $100, applied toward recovery. No data, no charge.

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